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Based on the article: Antenna on
the Cheap (er, Chip) by
Rob Flickenger, Jul. 05, 2001 05:20 PM available
here:
http://www.oreillynet.com/cs/weblog/view/wlg/448 |
Step 1: get parts and tools
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Parts list:
- All-thread, 5 5/8" long, 1/8" OD
- two nylon lock nuts
- five 1" washers, 1/8" ID
- 6" aluminium tubing, 1/4" ID
- A connector to match your radio pigtail (e.g. a female N
connector)
- 1 1/2" piece of 12 gauge solid copper wire (used house
electrical wiring will do)
- A tall Pringles can (any flavour, Ridges are optional.)
- Scrap plastic disc, 3" across (or a second Pringles can
lid)
Tools required:
- Ruler
Scissors
Pipe cutter (or hacksaw or rotary tool, in a pinch)
Heavy duty cutters (or rotary again, to cut the all-thread)
Something sharp to pierce the plastic (like an awl or a
drill bit)
Hot glue gun
Soldering Iron
Estimated construction time: about an hour |
Step 2: Build front collector
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Mark and cut four pieces of tubing, about 1.2" (1
15/64"). |
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Where does this number come from? First figure out the
wavelength at the bottom of the frequency range we're using
(2.412 GHz, or channel 1). This will be the longest that
the pipe should be:
W = 3.0 * 10^8 * (1 / 2.412) * 10^-9
W = (3.0 / 2.412) * 10^-1
W = 0.124 Meters
W = 4.88 inches
We'll be cutting the pipe to quarter wavelength, so:
1/4 W = 4.88 / 4
1/4 W = 1.22"
Now figure out what the shortest we'll ever use is (2.462
Ghz, or channel 11):
W = 3.0 * 10^8 * (1 / 2.462) * 10^-9
W = (3.0 / 2.462) * 10^-1
W = 0.122 Meters
W = 4.80 inches
1/4 W = 1.20"
Practically speaking, what's the difference between the
shortest pipe and the longest pipe length? about 0.02", or
less than 1/32". That's probably about the size of the pipe
cutter blade you're using. So, just shoot for 1.2", and you'll
get it close enough. |
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Cut the all-thread to exactly 5 5/8". The washers we used
are about 1/16" thick, so that should leave just enough room for
the pipe, washers, and nuts. Pierce a hole in the center of
the Pringles can lid big enough for the all-thread to pass
through. Now is probably a good time to start eating Pringles
(we found it better for all concerned to just toss the things;
Salt & Vinegar Pringles get to be almost caustic after the first
fifteen or so.)
Cut a 3" plastic disc, just big enough to fit snugly
inside the can. Use another Pringles lid, with the outer ridge
trimmed off, to be ideal. Poke a hole in the center of it, and
slip it over one of the lengths of pipe. |
Step 3: Assemble the pipe
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You might have to use a file or rotary tool to shave the tips of
the thread, if you have trouble getting the nuts on. The pipe is
a sandwich that goes on the all-thread like this:Nut Lid Washer Pipe Washer Pipe Washer Pipe-with-Plastic Washer Pipe Washer Nut
Tighten
down the nuts to be snug, but don't over tighten (I bent the
tubing on our first try; aluminium bends VERY easily.) Just get
it snug. Congratulations, you now you have the front collector. |
Step 4: Prepare can
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Eat
the chips, wipe out the can, and measure 3 3/8" up from
the bottom of the can. Cut a hole just big enough for the
connector to pass through. This seems to be the "sweet spot" of
the can.On the Pringles Salt & Vinegar can, the N connector
goes directly between Sodium and Protein. |
Step 5: Build element
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Straighten the heavy copper wire, and solder it to the
connector. When inside the can, the wire should be just below
the midpoint of the can (ours turned out to be about 1 1/16").
You lose a few db by going
longer, so cut it just shy of the middle of the can

Use hot glue to hold the connector in place. If you have a
connector that uses a compression nut and washer, and you're
really careful about cutting the hole, you could use that
instead.
Now, insert the collector assembly into the can, and close
the lid. The inside end of the pipe should NOT touch the copper
element; it should be just forward of it. If it touches, your
all-thread is probably too long.
Now connect your pigtail, aim carefully, and have fun! |
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